First Time in Roman Croatia

A Summer Journey from Zagreb to Split

I’d never been to Croatia before, and so my daughter and I decided that this summer was the moment to put that right. Flying into Zagreb, the capital, we settled into a lovely apartment right in the centre of town, just outside one of its main squares. Zagreb has two principal squares: one where all the tramlines meet (what good organisation!), and another where people gather in the evenings to sit, drink, talk and watch the world go by.

Zagreb is an understated city. It wears its treats under its sleeve, and at first glance we wondered what exactly we were going to do. But as the days unfolded, we found more than enough to occupy ourselves.

Zagreb: A City of Quiet Charms

A small funicular carries you up to the old town, where the Cathedral and the Parliament buildings sit on the hilltop. Sadly, both were closed for restoration, but the climb still rewarded us with views and atmosphere.

Down below, the Marian shrine at Stone Gate glows with candles and devotion, sheltering the miraculous portrait of the Virgin Mary.

You can take a tram and then a cable car (one of Europe’s longest!) up the local mountain, which offers sweeping views and a surprisingly good restaurant at the summit. It makes for a gentle and pleasant day out.

Most of Zagreb’s museums were closed for refurbishment, sadly, but as if by some miracle the Archaeological Museum was open — and absolutely worth the visit. Its collection of artefacts from the surrounding region reminds you how significant Croatia was in Roman and Illyrian times. The first floor is beautifully laid out, with cases showing daily life in Roman times, ideal for schoolchildren and anyone curious about material culture. I was particularly drawn to the objects from the temples of Mithras, and the array of well-preserved Roman helmets, swords and armour.

Elsewhere, Zagreb’s botanical garden is a delight — well worth an hour or two of wandering. A little kiosk, pained bright red, houses occasional exhibitions and the rumble of trains reminds you the station is only next door. If we had more time in Zagreb, it makes for a handy base for visiting some of the nearby towns, which looked interesting in their own right.

The Long Train South: Zagreb to Split

From Zagreb we took the train to Split. The main station in Zagreb, a rather fine classical building now slightly fallen on hard times, was our starting point. The journey takes seven hours, including a cigarette stop halfway. We chose the train rather than the quicker bus because we wanted to see the countryside — and it was definitely worth it.

The train winds slowly through mountains, cresting high passes before descending towards the sea. It’s only two coaches and there is no buffet – so we took sandwiches and drinks. There is a bit of air con. Eventually Split appears, the tracks running right down the coastline into the centre of town. From the station it was a short walk to our accommodation.

Split: A Palace by the Sea

Split is a very beautiful place. We were lucky to stay right in the centre, in an apartment built into the walls of Diocletian’s Palace. For those who don’t know, Diocletian was one of the Roman emperors, and he retired early to Split, having been born in the nearby town of Salona (the ruins of which are still visible). He built a vast palace for himself and for his praetorian guard, who lived at the back.

The view from the front — across the sea towards the Croatian islands — is just as beautiful now as it must have been then. Our room overlooked the riva, which thrums with pedestrians day and night, visiting bars and restaurants. From there we could watch boats coming and going, from island ferries to great ocean liners cruising the Adriatic.

Diocletian’s Palace is remarkably well preserved. There is the peristyle, the underground cellars, and the massive circular mausoleum — now a Christian cathedral. Diocletian, one of the last persecutors of Christians, would be rolling in his grave had he not been removed centuries ago by the very same people he hated when he was alive. You get what you deserve, I suppose. You can climb the campanile and look down on the whole ensemble. It's a bit precarious – but if you have a head for heights, it’s well worth it. Nearby stands the Temple of Jupiter, now the baptistery, another integral part of the palace complex. There’s a full-on medieval plunge pool for baptisms and a headless sphinx takes guard outside.

Split’s squares are lined with marble, and its buildings range from medieval to beautiful early 20th century designs, including some fine art nouveau. Conquered by the Venetians, it still carries their imprint: elegance, stone, light. Cafés, restaurants, bars and shops spill into the streets, filled with tourists day and night.

Beyond Split: Waterfalls and Islands

From Split we took a day trip to the waterfalls of the Krka National Park — well worth the journey. On another day, we visited the island of Hvar, a smaller, calmer version of Split, about an hour’s journey away: less frenetic, equally beautiful. A walk up to the fortress on top of the hill is strenuous but rewards you with magical views across the bay and out to the islands beyond. I’d come and stay in Hvar longer next time.

Back soon?

Croatia surprised us. Zagreb’s understatement, Split’s Roman grandeur, the mountains, the sea, the islands — all of it combined into a trip that felt both restful and rich. For a first visit, it was a perfect introduction. And it certainly won’t be the last.